Setting up Your Seahorse Aquarium Introduction
Never before has the keeping of seahorses in home aquaria
been so easy. Captive-bred seahorses are fun to keep in an
aquarium but like any pet they need to be fed appropriately
and their environment maintained. You should look into what
is required before purchasing your seahorses, keeping in mind
that requirements may vary between species.
You can make your aquarium as simple or as elaborate as you desire. There are
literally thousands of accessories on the market and it can be daunting at
first. Below is a guide for setting up a seahorse aquarium. If you have any
questions, feel free to contact us here at the farm or for more detailed coverage
you can purchase a book in the seahorse
shop.
Choosing a species
Temperate, tropical and sub-tropical species are available.
Temperate species, which require cooler water temperatures
(e.g. 16-20oC) should only be kept in cooler climates or where
other methods of water cooling, such as a chiller, are available.
Similarly, a heater may be required for tropical species kept
in cooler climates.
Size should also be considered. Larger species such as Southern
Knights or Asian Emperors require larger aquariums. Southern
Champions are a small species and can be kept in smaller tanks.
Our current range of captive-bred seahorses is found in the
seahorse shop (***link).
Choosing a tank
There are many different sizes and styles of aquaria to choose
from. An uncrowded aquarium will help you to observe the fascinating
habits of your seahorses.
The minimum size should be about 50L (see individual species pages), which
will safely house two seahorses up to about 14cm in length. Larger fish should
be given a minimum of 80L per pair. However a larger tank (e.g. 150L) will
allow you flexibility in interior design, while giving the seahorses room to
explore their habitat. Deeper tanks are desirable if you intend to breed your
seahorses (see Breeding).
The larger your tank, the easier it is to maintain optimum water quality
Substrate and Filter
There is a vast array of filter systems available on the market.
Internal Powerhead filters are great, though choose a size
appropriate for your particular tank. Ideally, you want the
whole volume of your aquarium to pass through the filter 3-4
times each hour. Eg, for a 90-L tank, choose a Powerhead that
filters 270-360 litres per hour. A common mistake when using
a powerhead as the sole means of filtration, occurs when cleaning.
Beginners are tempted to clean all the filtering material,
however this destroys much-needed biological filtering capacity.
It is pertinent to clean only some of the filter material at
a time. See your local aquarium dealer, or contact us at the
farm for further details.
Undergravel filters are commonly used in aquaria where they
act as both a mechanical and biological filter. These filters
are usually inexpensive and work very well, though are the
most laborious to maintain. A simple undergravel filter consists
of a base-plate on which 3-5cm of coarse washed pebbles are
placed. Please avoid very small stones, sand or shell grit
as there is some risk that these may be ingested by the seahorses
while foraging for food. Scattering larger stones on top of
your pebbles makes a great looking tank. These filters are
usually driven by air and therefore help to keep the water
well saturated with oxygen.
External Canister filters are more elaborate and expensive,
they work great (be sure to choose the right size for your
tank) and are the easiest to maintain.
Large tanks may incorporate more than one filter. For the best system for your
needs and budget consult your local dealer or contact
us at the farm.
Air supply
When setting up air-stones, be aware that excess air can be
problematic, as the male seahorses can get air trapped in his
pouch. Seahorses love to sit in the stream of bubbles coming
from airstones. Occasionally, a male may get some air trapped
in his pouch (this can also occur during courtship with a female).
This can be easily remedied by a gentle massage:
1. wash hands thoroughly and ensure there is no soap or
moisturiser residue
2. Hold your male in both hands, just under the water surface, with his pouch-opening
facing upwards.
3. Starting at the base of the pouch, very gently squeeze from the bottom
up, encouraging him to open his pouch and release the air. It may take 3
or 4 attempts. Be patient, he will thank you for it. If you are nervous about
doing this the first time, ring Rachelle at the farm for further guidance.
Holdfasts and Corals
Some artificial branches or other structures
should be added that provide sites for the seahorses to wrap
their tails around.
Rope and netting are fine or choose artificial ornaments from
your aquarium shop that have suitable structures for the seahorses
to wrap their tales around. Avoid items with sharp edges. Live
corals require temperatures outside the range of temperate
species, and therefore are not compatible inclusions. For the
tropical species some corals are safe but others emit toxins
so corals may not be the best additions if you are unsure.
Some claim that Chargers (H. barbouri) are the best suited
species for aquariums with corals. Take care if adding live
rock to your tank as it can be a source of harmful parasites.
See "Tank Companions" for other great temperate marine
animals that complement Southern Knights and Southern Champions.
Biological filtration & the
nitrogen cycle - Looking after your water quality
Biological filters are a normal part
of keeping any aquarium. Your biological filter (which is
your pebbles / substrate in
an undergravel filter, or your sponge and noodles in a suspended
Powerhead filter) is designed to grow ‘helpful’ bacteria,
which convert toxic products (excreted from fish) into non-toxic
forms.
Fish excrete ammonia, which is toxic if it accumulates. One
species of bacteria in your biological filter feeds on the
ammonia and converts it into nitrite.
Nitrite is also very toxic, however another species of bacteria
will convert this to nitrate.
Nitrate is much less toxic to marine fish, and can be removed with the help
of a simple protein skimmer, and by renewing some of the water. (Nitrate is
an excellent nutrient for plants, so high levels will encourage algal growth).
While providing adequate food for your seahorses is necessary
for their health, overfeeding (where leftover food is discarded
on the aquarium floor) is dangerous for 2 reasons:
1. It encourages the growth of ‘unsafe’ bacteria
2. Levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate may rise suddenly to dangerous
levels ("spike").
As with all aquarium fish, overfeeding should be avoided at
all times, and any uneaten food removed (e.g. with a siphon)
to avoid poor water quality.
Levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate can be easily tested with test kits,
available from pet-shops or the Seahorse Shop ***(link).
Ideal levels are:
Total Ammonia at Zero mg/L
Nitrite at Zero mg/L
Nitrate at or below 100 mg/L
So – how does your biological
filter become established?
Any type of fish will excrete ammonia,
and this is what is needed to begin growing the bacteria
in your biological filter.
However in a new tank, the ammonia will rise to dangerous levels
before there are enough bacteria to break it down. Therefore
it is highly recommended that you establish your biological
filter prior to stocking with seahorses. There are several
ways to do this – the two most popular ways are:
1. To use bottled culture media (from your petshop).
2. To set up your tank and put in a prawn or some frozen fish food. As the
bacteria break it down, they will produce ammonia and kick-off the biological
cycle. If you regularly test your water during this period you will see
ammonia levels peak, followed by nitrite levels peaking, then ammonia falls
to zero followed by nitrite levels.
The cycle can take 4-6 weeks to complete.
You will know it is complete because your ammonia and nitrite
test will show
readings of "zero". This means the bacteria are living
in balanced numbers.
You can now consider your tank to have 'cycled' and confidently
add your seahorses.
Water quality
When you first set up your aquarium and add your seahorses,
it is wise to check the following parameters regularly: temperature,
pH, salinity, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. When the readings
are staying relatively stable, you can stop checking so often
and sit back and enjoy your extraordinary new pets.
Salinity
Salinity tolerance is likely to vary between species. Southern
Knights, which sometimes live in estuaries, tolerate a range
of salinity from a minimum of 18 parts per thousand (ppt) to
a maximum of 36ppt but living conditions below about 25ppt
should be promptly corrected. About 32 ppt is ideal. In specific
gravity terms, between 1.01 and 1.02. Measuring salinity is
done with an inexpensive hydrometer, which is readily available
from your aquarium dealer and from our Seahorse Shop.
Preparation of artificial seawater
Using artificial seawater is a popular way of keeping marine
fish and commercial brands are available (an excellent brand
is Ocean Nature, available from our Seahorse
Shop).
DO NOT use a mixture of table salt and freshwater, as this
will kill your seahorses!
Preparation requires care and we advise that the tap/fresh
water be prepared first.
The following procedure is recommended:
1. Place fresh water in storage bucket. Dechlorinate carefully
by adding water purifier. Aerate.
2. Wait for 2 hours
3. Add aquarium salt as per directions on the pack.
As time goes by, and particularly in warm weather, the salinity
of your tank will gradually increase. Monitor and add fresh
water (with purifier) to reduce the salinity level. Party ice
is ideal to lower the temperature and salinity.
Temperature
Seahorses inhabit temperate, sub-tropical and tropical regions
around the world. This environment should be mimicked in your
aquarium. Before deciding on what species of seahorse you would
like, ensure that you check their temperature requirements
and whether you are capable of maintaining that temperature.
A thermometer is an essential aquarium accessory.
Refer to species descriptions for optimal temperature ranges.
Ideas to keep your water temperature down in warm climates:
- Keep in an air-conditioned or cool part of the house.
- A generous tank size (eg >80-L).
- 2 freezer blocks. Keep one in the tank and one in the freezer
and alternate as required.
- Add party–ice. These simply
replace evaporation and do not severely alter salinity.
- Insulate unseen sides of tanks. (e.g. add polystyrene to
sides of tanks hidden in cabinets).
- Turn your aquarium light off in hot weather.
Food
Having to find a source of live food is a thing of the past,
thanks to captive-bred seahorses being trained to eat frozen
food. They love frozen Mysid shrimp, small krill and brine
shrimp. They require feeding twice per day with approximately
50 shrimp/krill. In warmer weather (water temperatures) feed
a little extra. A sole diet of frozen brine shrimp is not recommended
in the long-term, as it lacks important nutrients and your
seahorses may slowly lose condition. It is best to supplement
their diet with frozen Mysid shrimp or krill, as these have
fantastic nutritional profiles.
As with all aquarium fish, any uneaten food should be siphoned
away. When doing this be careful not to injure your seahorse
with the suction of the siphon.
If live diets are available from your aquarium dealer, then
these can be purchased occasionally to give your seahorse a
treat. They will especially love the thrill of chasing their
prey.
Disease Management
The key to good health is water quality and nutrition!
Our seahorses are regularly checked at the farm for any disease
problems. Our staff ensures the good health of every fish leaving
the farm. We do not recommend the indiscriminate use of antibiotics
since resistant strains of bacteria may quickly result.
If you suspect your seahorse might be
unwell at any time, the best immediate attention you can
provide is to lower the
temperature towards the lower end of its preferred range (e.g.16-18°C
(65-68°F) for Southern Knights). Anti-bacterial agents
can be administered if warranted, though be sure to dose your
tank as per directions on the bottle, and continue the treatment
for the duration of the organism’s life cycle.
More information
If you would like to join an on-line
discussion group there
are several groups including:
www.seahorse.org
www.syngnathid.org
ultimate
seahorse
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